My Big Adventure 2024 - Northumberland Coast Path
Day 3 - Warkworth to Craster to Embleton
Mileage: 18. That’s right. 18!
Mood: Properly knackered…and windswept.
Music: None. OK – there was a Crowded House earworm (Four Seasons In One Day) for a few miles, but that was about it. I’ve been too busy walking…
Memories Made: Dodging golf balls
After a lunchtime pint, I pushed on towards Dunstanburgh Castle.
The sun was out, the pint had been very acceptable and the locals were in a chatty mood.
“Are you enjoying your time here?”, asked one lady.
“Yep – loving it. It’s stunning. Really beautiful”, I replied.
“Well, it gets even better from here. You’ve got some amazing sights to see as you walk further North”
“Brilliant!”
“But one thing…”, she said with a sparkle in her eye.
“Go on”, I prompted.
“When you go back home, don’t tell any of your friends about how amazing this place is. We like to keep it our little secret…”
The thing is that this part of the world is a bit of a secret. Not that many people make the long long trip up here, and when they do, it’s not exactly Las Vegas. If you love castles, wildlife and walking, it’s heaven on earth. If you’re up for the finer things in life, maybe look elsewhere.
Today was different in a few ways. Much less in the way of dunes and more in the way of really well maintained paths along the cliff edges. The paths are tarmac and stone, which gives the feet a bit of a battering, but you can rack up the miles relatively quickly.
Oh, and it was windy. Really windy.
I’ve also managed to walk the length of two golf courses today, each issuing dire warnings about flying balls. If nothing else, the signs give you all the encouragement you need to walk that little bit faster.
The coast is also starting to get more rugged. There’s still a gorgeous sand beach around most corners, but things are definitely getting rockier.
So, it’s been a long tough day, but I’ve still got a ridiculous grin across my face. My fancy watch has just flashed up that I should have a rest day tomorrow and that it will take 94 hours of doing nothing for my body to recover. Bummer – I’ve got 14 miles ahead of me in the morning.
Towns ticked off today:
Alnmouth – really liked this place. Very nice shops, some lovely looking pubs and the prettiest bay yet.
Boulder – Hardly noticed it. Small and surrounded by caravan parks
Craster – Where the Queen’s Kippers came from. Heaving with people with gilets and ordering dressed crab in very loud voices. Left soon after.
Embleton – A diversion from the path, but the only chance of accommodation. I’m staying in The Blue Bell Inn. Let’s just say I’m glad it’s just the one night.
Time for a pint, a bite to eat and a well deserved coma-like sleep…